The outlet serves as secondary protection to the breaker, both will trip if they sense a voltage variance, or voltage going to ground.īoth GFI breakers and outlets can, and will eventually fail. Often the same circuit is used to power a GFCI electrical outlet underneath the pool sub panel. These are often easy to spot by the yellow Test button, and are usually 20 amp breakers. The pool light must be installed on a GFCI circuit. That means that the wires coming to the pool light J-box must come from a GFCI breaker. This helps protect the connection from the possible deterioration from water and chemicals. An electrical potting compound is put over the grounding connection, the termination encapsulated in a wet niche potting compound. Inside the wet niche there is a grounding lug that must have a bare copper wire connected to it, normally this a continuous ground around the entire pool. Both ground wires from the light and breaker are connected together and pig-tailed to a green ground screw inside the J-box.Īn electrician should ground the light niche, to protect against any stray voltage. The junction box should be 18″ above the water level, to keep pool water out. But the Sloan pool had low voltage, 12V lighting, which can also be unsafe when mis-wired, and when GFCI’s fail to interrupt the circuit.Īs shown in the image, the light cord wires run in conduit (pipe) from the back of the light niche, to the junction box where the wires connect to the wires coming from the GFCI breaker. When Calder Sloan, a 7 yr old Florida boy, was fatally shocked by a pool light in 2014, there was a great debate over whether 120V pool lights should be banned. If there is any indication that protection has been compromised it is important to replace the device.Pool lights are naturally seen as the most obvious risk area for pool electrocution, being a light that’s underwater. Remember, GFCIs are used to help protect you and your family from the risks of electrical shock. The graphic below is a snapshot of the LED Indicator Lights. The self-test functionality has been lost and the device will therefore not reset.The circuit breaker tripped or there is no power to the circuit and the device cannot be reset.If it does not, there is still no power on the circuit and for safety reasons the device must be replaced. In this situation, simply press the RESET button. A ground fault has been detected and power was automatically cut to help protect you from the potential occurrence of shock or electrocution.NO LED means the device is in the tripped state. If the GFCI will NOT reset or the solid or blinking red light continues, the device has somehow been compromised and must be replaced. In this case, simply press the TEST and RESET buttons to reset the GFCI. If, during a self-test, the GFCI detects a potential problem, one indicator is a solid or blinking red light. Your SmartlockPro Self-Test GFCI is engineered to regularly conduct an internal test (self-test) to confirm that protected power is available, offering an added layer of protection from electrical shocks due to hazardous ground-faults. GREEN LIGHT indicates the device has passed the self-test and is providing power. Leviton SmartlockPro® Self-Test GFCI devices, introduced in 2015, feature a small LED status indicator light to give you a convenient way to check the level of ground fault protection at-a-glance. "Why is the light on my GFCI device flashing red?"
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